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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.